PATS or Passive Anti-Theft System

I have to admit I have never been a fan of Ford. For the most part I think Ford makes crap vehicles. In fact this is the first Ford I have ever owned for that very reason.

When I bought this beast it only had one key. No problem, my 2005 Lexus came with one key, I just bought a new one online, used my original and programmed the new key.

Not so with my old Ford.

Instructions for Later 98 Fords

• 1 Insert the first original key into ignition.
• 2 Turn ignition to "ON" position then "OFF."
• 3 Remove the first original key and replace with second original key and turn ignition to "ON", then "OFF."
• 4 Remove second original key and replace with new key within 20 seconds and turn ignition to "ON", then "OFF." Light will flash for three seconds if successful. Wait one minute before starting engine.

Now if you have TWO f*ing keys why would you need a third and if you only have one you are f*ed too because you need to go to the Ford dealership; which is tantamount to visiting Walmart at midnight just as the food-stamp cards are loaded.


I am not about to spend $150 to buy and program a spare key, Ford can go F* themselves.

The reason I cannot use a regular blank is that it needs the RFID chip to start. But I cannot carry my Lexus Key and the Ford key on the same key-chain because they RFIDs interfere with each other.

So how can I get the Xploder to operate with a regular key and stop the Ford RFID and Lexus RFID keys from interfering with each other is the big question.

Well, fortunately for me I have opposable thumbs and an enlarged pre-frontal cortex.

I cut a key-sized hole just next to the ignition tumbler in the Xploder, then jammed the only key that works into that hole so the RFID sensor is happy. I can use a regular key blank in the ingnition tumbler now, as many as I f*ing want, and the RFID from the Xploder is left in the truck so it does not interfere with the Lexus key. 

I am sure I could have opened the key housing and JB-welded the RFID chip itself under the column cover but that seems too permanent. 

Enter The Locker

As I was virtually building this rig before I actually started buying anything I realized that I would be wasting a lot of time if I install a lift and big tires but forego a locker. Without a locker it is just a glorified commuter. So once I decided on what rig I wanted to build I researched the best locker options for my needs.

The rig I bought had a Limited-slip diff. As I researched locker options for the Ford 8.8 31 spline LSD carrier I found only one locker that would fit in that carrier and it was $500. There were plenty of the full diff lockers that replace the carrier but they were way more expensive and a lot more work to install. I wanted lunchbox locker that was easy to replace but they were all designed for an open diff. and they are priced around $300. Well $300 is better the $500 so I went to a salvage yard and found an open diff carrier for $40. I had to remove it myself but it was a good exercise. So instead of $500 I got a $300 + $40 locker.

Now to put it in. After pulling the cover I noticed how low the diff fluid was and how bad it smelled, clearly overheated and old. There were also bits of glitter all in the fluid. Arrgg! Lets get the guts out and change the carrier. First thing is a little 8mm bolt that holds in the center pin, the one from the junkyard came out really easy so this should be over soon. ARGGGG!!

The ONE bolt that we do NOT want to have problems with. Apparently this diff has been pretty hot to cause the bolt to stress fracture. As luck would have it the bolt only has a few threads left and with a punch we were able to turn it out. Disaster averted. 

Next issue, the locker kit comes with a new hardened center pin but not a replacement 8mm bolt. Well, because I grew up working on shiddy cars I know when to capitalize on an opportunity. While at the junkyard getting the open diff I pocketed the extra bolts and clips.... I have a spare. 

With the center pin removed I can remove the C clips that hold in the axles, that LSD is filthy! 

On the floor to remove ring-gear to install on open diff. While both ring gears have the same ratio the junk yard one has rust on it. I don't want to deal with that, so the original ring gear goes back in. 

On the floor. 

That is a filthy housing, we had to clean out sludge and glitter. We discovered that the LSD clutch packs were shot, that is where the glitter came from. Let's hope we can reuse the bearings from the open diff.

Before

After

While in there we noticed that the pinion had improper play, we thought, hmm, I won't be using this guy very often, perhaps it will be OK. Then I thought, I am here now, why be lazy, I don't want a failure on the trail. Lets take a look at it. 

OMG!

The pinion bearings are shot. 

Now we get to look all over town for a pinion bearing kit. AZ had 3 parts, O'R had 3 parts but we still needed the crush collar. Finally we found a complete kit for roughly what the other 6 parts cost. We got a master diff rebuilt kit. I HIGHLY recommend you get this kit if you are going to put in a locker on an old axle, the odds are you will need it. 

While were were there we replaced the axle stabilizer shock. 

Below you can see the difference between an LSD and an open carrier. The open carrier on the left has the ring gear we are keeping and new bearings from the kit. 

Cleaned diff ready for rebuilt pinion, open diff with new bearings and soon the locker, which is what we thought was going to be a simple process. 

The open diff is in, getting excited!

And we have a locker!

Lets see how this guy handles in adverse driving conditions.

Much Needed Under Armor

As my wife says "If you are gonna do wrong do wrong the right way". Amen baby! After I removed my bumper I was feeling a little exposed, not like that bumper offered much protection anyway. I cannot let vital systems hang down where they are sure to be damaged. The radiator, AC condenser and trans cooler NEED to be protected if I expect them to do their part.

As I mentioned in a previous post, after-market support for Explorer is not that great. I did find a Ranger skid plate from RCI Metal Works . They had great service and quick delivery. However installation wasn't without complications.

So excited. 

Getting ready to install. RCI provided 4 self-tapping bolts. These were extremely beneficial. 

Because this was designed for a Ranger only the further most bolts lined up, the front two did not. To frustrate matters one of the only two holes that it reached was stripped out, Arggh.

The hole closest to the sway bar is stripped out, I made a scratched outline of the where the second bolt should go after a trial shield install. I took the armor off and drilled a hole for the self-tapping bolts to insert.

While I was at it I drilled a new hole for the stripped out rear bolt hole. I chose to drill it more towards the outside over the overlapped frame to allow more thread area. 

Now it fits nicely and offers great coverage. 

Lets see how long we can keep that nice powder-coat on. 

Custom Bumper

While the support for aftermarket bumpers is overflowing for Jeep and Suzuki, etc... there is not much for Explorer/Ranger. While there are winch bumper solutions I didn't want to spend 10% of my rig budget on one.

I know it would be foolish to not have a recovery plan which will include a winch but I don't like it sitting out there in the elements and my approach angle. I figured a winch on a winch plate connected to a 2" receiver was the best option, I can move from front to rear and keep in inside the Xploder when not in use. Now to find a cheap bumper that has a 2" receiver hitch. Well, I went down to my local junkyard and found a large collection of rear bumper receiver hitches for large trucks collecting rust. So with my bumper removed I went through that pile and found one I liked.

I think this one came off of a 2002 Explorer, it should suit my needs. Now for the mock-up

Seems to add pretty good coverage and approach angle is not reduced. Nice!

Rancho Shocks

When I first got this beast it handled like an old Cadillac, I quickly realized the shocks were very bad, probably the original factory shocks. This would not do for my purposes. I installed the rear lift shackles, (will post that later) and turned the front torsion bars 3 full turns, I later turned two more for a total of 5 turns. Some people say that is too high and will cause undue stress on my front axles. I say when the spring is under tension the axle is straight enough and if I was concerned with undue stress I would leave the Xploder in the driveway. Anyway, I needed shocks that will account for the lift.

FYI, fitting this boot over the axle was a serious PITA.

Before

and after

The rear looks pretty good too

The First Cut

We all love the look and functionality of 33 in wheels but sometimes there are conflicts.

Turning was impossible so I have to find a way to make room without trial and error hacking. I used common fender markers on each side to setup a template.

 Then I marked both sides so they will look symmetrical. 

Now we are fully committed. 

I trimmed a little more in the inside but we are good now, full range of motion. 

Poly Bushings

When I bought this thing the suspension was very loose. The below probably has a lot to do with it.

As you can see they are pretty wore out. So I thought I would take the opportunity to upgrade.

Installed and ready to test them out, I need to check my ball-joints next.